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What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Discussion in 'Shop Talk - BladeSmith Questions and Answers' started by WillSwift, Oct 8, 2013.

  1. FredyCro

    FredyCro

    501
    Jan 11, 2019
    Yes, thanks. I like the massive clamp/plunge stop.
     
    Last edited: Nov 19, 2020
  2. John Cahoon

    John Cahoon JWC Custom Knives Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    810
    Apr 13, 2017
    Here's an Arizona themed EDC just finished up. .125" NitroV at about 8" OAL with Mesquite, Turquoise and Copper. We have lots of all three here! 20-24 2.jpg 20-24 3.jpg 20-24 8.jpg
     
  3. Cliff Carter Knives

    Cliff Carter Knives KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    393
    May 30, 2011
    Carbon fiber is so beautiful but it’s absolutely disgusting to work with

    662155DC-B826-487F-823A-C2AB8E787FF5.jpeg
     
  4. ashwinearl

    ashwinearl

    308
    Nov 9, 2006
    Mini Kwaiken, 8670, Black G10
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  5. FredyCro

    FredyCro

    501
    Jan 11, 2019
    [​IMG]
    I would appreciate your feedback on the design, I would like to use 4mm 14c28n. Handle material micarta. The front of the scales would be wider to provide a integrated guard. 2 corby bolts and maybe 2 3mm pins on the front and back of the scales (if not a structural problem?). I will weigh the blank, if too heavy I would do a small fuller with a small wheel attachment before HT.
     
  6. PEU

    PEU Gaucho Knifemaker Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    908
    Aug 6, 2006
    4mm is OK and IMHO you don't need a fuller, a cleaver needs that weight to do the job.

    This is the model I do regularly, I use from 3.5 to 4.5mm depending on what Bohler has in stock for K720

    Pablo

    [​IMG]
     
    Storm W and FredyCro like this.
  7. Hengelo_77

    Hengelo_77 Basic Member Basic Member

    Mar 2, 2006
    Don't overdo with pins and corbies, imho that looks off
     
    FredyCro likes this.
  8. FredyCro

    FredyCro

    501
    Jan 11, 2019
    Thanks, two large corbies ought to do the job.
     
  9. David Schott

    David Schott

    Sep 27, 2004
    Tony Bose died yesterday so theres that. Totally sucks.
     
  10. imill3567

    imill3567 KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    254
    Aug 5, 2014
    One thing on the handle I usually try to angle the front of the handle material so you don’t end up with that little nub past the curve at the heel. In other words end the bottom of the handle material just before the tight curve to the heel but this is just personal preference. PEU did exactly this on his cleaver he posted above.
     
    E.Carlson and FredyCro like this.
  11. FredyCro

    FredyCro

    501
    Jan 11, 2019
    Thanks. I usually also finish the front of the scale without the nub. I want to attempt an integrated guard, that would prevent your hand slipping forward. Similar to this.
    [​IMG]
    First design had the nub completely out, now it is halfway up the blade, to gain half cm of handle length (without changing overall length) .
     
  12. Cushing H.

    Cushing H. Gold Member Gold Member

    Jun 3, 2019
    Try a brass bolster that sits forward, as in the victorinox model you supply a photo of?
     
  13. FredyCro

    FredyCro

    501
    Jan 11, 2019
    Hmm, I want to keep it simple, no holes on the front of the handle this time. My plan was to cut a "T" in micarta and split it down the length for two scales, shape the curves with small wheel attachment. Here is a rudimentary scetch.
    [​IMG]
     
  14. imill3567

    imill3567 KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    254
    Aug 5, 2014
    I like the idea of integrated guard but a cleaver doesn’t necessarily need one with such a large choil it’d be pretty hard to slip onto the edge. But for the learning experience why not, sorry for derailing the thread everyone.
     
    FredyCro likes this.
  15. FredyCro

    FredyCro

    501
    Jan 11, 2019
    That a valid point, thanks for your input. I think I will do it without the guard and save the trouble for a knife where it makes more sense. Also with the swinging motion the knife wants to actually slip out of your hand and not toward it, if it makes sense.

    I sometimes use this thread for short questions as to not open a thread for each question I have (habit of a bicycle forum I used to frequent).

    Back on topic. First time grinding a knife on my 50x2000 (would be incorrect to call it 2x72 :)). It's a beast, so quick progress. Vfd iz amazing!

    [​IMG]
    Choil shot before convexing.
    [​IMG]
    Tip shot before convexing.
    [​IMG]
    120 grit after convexing (came out a bit blurry)
    [​IMG]
     
    Storm W and Scaniaman like this.
  16. Blackdirt cowboy

    Blackdirt cowboy

    198
    Oct 29, 2015
    I’m amazed at some (most) of y’all’s grinding ability. I’m on my tenth knife, and they’re getting there. But I’m now where near where I want to be. I usually do really good until I make a stupid mistake. But, each knife is better than the last, so I guess I’m on the right trajectory.
     
    Richard Coyle, weo and Scaniaman like this.
  17. FredyCro

    FredyCro

    501
    Jan 11, 2019
    Hey, I am not even on the 10 knife mark. The bevel was partly ground pre HT with a jig. I did the grind today with a push stick method and a table. This was my good side. I slipped couple of times on the other side but it didn't matter in the end. I am practicing the clean lines and blending in at the end. With full flat grind there is no worries though :)
     
  18. weo

    weo KnifeMaker / Craftsman / Service Provider Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider

    Sep 21, 2014
    I was going to wait until I finished sanding the other 3, but I decided to take some pictures of a few blades that are waiting for handles:
    20201123_134231.jpg
     
    Richard338 and FredyCro like this.
  19. Richard338

    Richard338 Gold Member Gold Member

    May 3, 2005
    If you do 10 more where you concentrate hard on doing your best, plan things in advance, make sure you are not distracted, then you will soon start to "get lucky" and finish without a big mistake. I'm on a decent roll lately since I've been home and had more time to practice regularly. I always feel like I could mess up at any moment. I would say after about 30 knives, if you haven't had a bunch of time off, then you will certainly be confident of at least some of the steps.
     
  20. Cushing H.

    Cushing H. Gold Member Gold Member

    Jun 3, 2019
    So .... almost a year ago (in a thread about hardness versus sharpening ability) you all were "introduced" to my friend Brian and cooking chinese food...

    upload_2020-11-23_16-53-34.png

    Well .... as it turned out, Brian was diagnosed with a cancer this last summer, and recently returned from Mayo to recover from some major surgery (right now all actually looks ok :) ). Anyway, a few months ago I approached WEO to help create a damascus chinese cleaver (really a vegetable knife) as a get-well-soon present for brian. Here is the final product, which we gave to Brian yesterday:
    upload_2020-11-23_16-56-32.png

    upload_2020-11-23_16-57-23.png

    William forged out the damascus to requested number of layers and profile - he then sent it to me and I did the bevel grind, adjusted the profile, did the etch (first time!), and made the handle. WEO does make great damascus. Thank you William!

    Here are the specs:
    15N20 / 1080, 84 layers
    62 hrc
    handle: octagonal Wa, red dyed stablilized spalted maple (also from weo) with Wenge bolster and butt, red rubberized spacers.

    Of course, the first reaction from Brian was "I cant actually use this". I did ultimately extract a promise from him do damn-well use it!!!!! :)
     
    bike4fun919, Storm W, Nick-D and 10 others like this.

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