What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Natlek said:
I have only 40 grit ceramic belts....................so i start from there :D
What do you think about Don ? It is only knife i really like and I'm willing to pay for it but that THICK convex is killing me :mad:
Only knife i really like ..............:thumbsup:
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To be fair, they're not THAT thick in the stock convex grind but you won't be cutting carrots with it unless you want to chase them across the kitchen. The Don is gorgeous, and I'm sure an amazing knife but frankly Rocksteads are overpriced in my opinion. The only reason I have mine is that I got a screaming deal on it...which is why I had no hesitation regrinding it.
 
WValtakis said:
To be fair, they're not THAT thick in the stock convex grind but you won't be cutting carrots with it unless you want to chase them across the kitchen. The Don is gorgeous, and I'm sure an amazing knife but frankly Rocksteads are overpriced in my opinion. The only reason I have mine is that I got a screaming deal on it...which is why I had no hesitation regrinding it.
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It is 5.2 mm on spine .....and that shallow convex is what i don t like . Well they are overpriced but that Convex grind ................You will not find other knife with grind like that :)
Two or it was three years ago in Wien , Austria someone took me to a gun shop to look at a one million euro rifle ....I saw there Shin...... I couldn't resist and I bought it .A week later when I returned to Macedonia a crazy American was waiting for me, my best friend .I show him Shin ...he ask me how much i pay for it.... . .he left the money on the table, bought me a beer and take the plane to Jersey...with my knife :D I m Leatherman guy, this one Shin was first real knife i ever buy ...:)
It was nice to talk with you , enjoy in knive ...........now you have one of the kind :thumbsup:
 
Working on a largish AEBL gyuto. I think I nailed the distal, but thining behind the edge is taking forever. I am starting to understand why these large kitchen knives cost as much as they do.
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Is it possible that a 60g ceramic belt lost the initial bite after two large knives? Maybe it just glazed over because of slow grinding I did on the edge?

I will take it thinner on a 40g next time, how thin can one go on the edge with a rough grit to still have enough material to get out the scratches and small mistakes?
 
I take my edges down to .015” with a 36 grit belt, then work to .008” with 60 and 120 grit belts prior to heat treating. After heat treating I go back to the 60 grit and then start working my way up in the grits to get to final edge thickness.
 
FredyCro said:
Is it possible that a 60g ceramic belt lost the initial bite after two large knives?
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YES! On a knife that size, if I start with 60 grit, I'd go through 2 belts, including refreshing the grit a few times with a diamond tool. For 1 knife.
Put on a fresh belt now and make a pass or two, and see how that feels...
 
Scaniaman said:
YES! On a knife that size, if I start with 60 grit, I'd go through 2 belts, including refreshing the grit a few times with a diamond tool. For 1 knife.
Put on a fresh belt now and make a pass or two, and see how that feels...
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Yeah, I guessed that as well, especially since I ground all Nakiri on that 60 (no 40), it's also a very cheap ceramic belt from Poland.
 
Scaniaman said:
YES! On a knife that size, if I start with 60 grit, I'd go through 2 belts, including refreshing the grit a few times with a diamond tool. For 1 knife.
Put on a fresh belt now and make a pass or two, and see how that feels...
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You were right, the belt was dead, I changed to a new 60 and the grind was finished in 30 mins. I had to flatten the heal, correct the tip, and thin/convex the edge. All blendend in to 60 grit now, the spine at the tip measures 0.5mm.
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Here's a new Kephart in NitroV, just needs sharpening and a sheath. It's a fair rendering of the original, but with a slightly leaf shaped blade. The handle is K&G stabilized and dyed Jacaranda, kinda looks like denim and it has the flared fronts like the original, narrows behind that and widens to the back. I took liberties by adding the yellowjacket G10 liners.IMG_2538.JPG IMG_2539.JPG IMG_2540.JPG
 
I finished up my disc grinder build. I used a 2" pipe and welded a piece of 7" x 4" angle iron. This allowed me to mount a Beaumont disc grinder mounting plate (for a Baldor VM3558 motor) and then add the Beaumont adjustable work rest on top of it. I use 4 Harbor Freight trailer hitch pins to put the motor either as a vertical or horizontal disc grinder. The frame is on casters which allows me to move the grinder around the shop to get it out of the way. The setup has been very solid and doesn't vibrate or move when in use.

Links to pics:

http://www.michiganarmoury.com/knife/disc_vert_s.png
http://www.michiganarmoury.com/knife/disc_hort_s.png

disc_vert_s.png

disc_hort_s.png
 
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FredyCro said:
Working on a largish AEBL gyuto. I think I nailed the distal, but thining behind the edge is taking forever. I am starting to understand why these large kitchen knives cost as much as they do.
kbtYPRR.jpg

5kzTxPf.jpg

Is it possible that a 60g ceramic belt lost the initial bite after two large knives? Maybe it just glazed over because of slow grinding I did on the edge?

I will take it thinner on a 40g next time, how thin can one go on the edge with a rough grit to still have enough material to get out the scratches and small mistakes?
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Thos big blades are hard on belts because of the large surface area. Its tough to get enough pressure to fracture the grit. You can use a semi fresh belt to hog off material while the blade is still thick enough so the heat does get out of control. A wheel will grind much longer than the platen and can be used vertically to keep your flats. I find this is almost required for some of the more wear resistant steels. I pop on a fresh belt for that last 10% of the hogging faze. It helps me be a bit more frugal with the belts and it also helps me to change that belt to a new one instead of thinking about it 20 minutes after I start getting mistakes. :mad::poop::D
 
Storm W said:
Thos big blades are hard on belts because of the large surface area. Its tough to get enough pressure to fracture the grit. You can use a semi fresh belt to hog off material while the blade is still thick enough so the heat does get out of control. A wheel will grind much longer than the platen and can be used vertically to keep your flats. I find this is almost required for some of the more wear resistant steels. I pop on a fresh belt for that last 10% of the hogging faze. It helps me be a bit more frugal with the belts and it also helps me to change that belt to a new one instead of thinking about it 20 minutes after I start getting mistakes. :mad::poop::D
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I will make sure to try out the wheel first on the next one. Its my first two blades on the new grinder so I started with a 60 instead with a 40 and was also conservative on my rpms. I am interested how the used 60g belt will do for hogging off material on the wheel. Thanks for the tips!
 
John Cahoon said:
Here's a new Kephart in NitroV, just needs sharpening and a sheath. It's a fair rendering of the original, but with a slightly leaf shaped blade. The handle is K&G stabilized and dyed Jacaranda, kinda looks like denim and it has the flared fronts like the original, narrows behind that and widens to the back. I took liberties by adding the yellowjacket G10 liners.View attachment 1464284 View attachment 1464285 View attachment 1464286
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I sure like how that one turned out!!
 
FredyCro said:
I will make sure to try out the wheel first on the next one. Its my first two blades on the new grinder so I started with a 60 instead with a 40 and was also conservative on my rpms. I am interested how the used 60g belt will do for hogging off material on the wheel. Thanks for the tips!
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If you turn the speed on max. as NEW one:D
What Dia. drive wheel you have on grinder and what RPM is motor ?
 
chaoticmachinery said:
I finished up my disc grinder build. I used a 2" pipe and welded a piece of 7" x 4" angle iron. This allowed me to mount a Beaumont disc grinder mounting plate (for a Baldor VM3558 motor) and then add the Beaumont adjustable work rest on top of it. I use 4 Harbor Freight trailer hitch pins to put the motor either as a vertical or horizontal disc grinder. The frame is on casters which allows me to move the grinder around the shop to get it out of the way. The setup has been very solid and doesn't vibrate or move when in use.

disc_vert_s.png

http://www.michiganarmoury.com/knife/disc_vert_s.png
http://www.michiganarmoury.com/knife/disc_hort_s.png
disc_hort_s.png
Click to expand...
I can t see any picture , can you do something ? I have three disk grinder and I want one of them to make it horizontal/vertical so ..........i would like to see how you do that ?
 
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