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time to sniff some glue
 
it's a huge pain in the ass. But ensures even stitches with a variable thickness welt, allows only as much welt width as necessary, and gives me a way to deal with adding a lining. I didn't think to use t pins for this until I saw i4Marc i4Marc post up some pics of him using this method. Bought pins right away and it's much better than how I did it before. Up until that point I used locating holes and thumb tacks which was totally hit and miss
Lorien, do you rough up the gain side of the leather before you apply glue?
yep
 
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