NASA Bushcraft; thoughts on design

I think for this blade we should stick with the tried and true all around performers. While not as exciting as some exotics, S30V or S35VN would make for a practical choice.
 
Nobody said:
... simple wide bladed Brian Breeden knife in O1 that is so thin that its grind is a cross between a scandi-grind and a long convex. It's done everything better than just about anything else I've owned and it's lightweight too...
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I am a bit late to this party and I hope it's ok if I just give my thoughts here.
This is exactly my thought! A nice, thin, acute convex grind (not convex edge !!) is probably the best outdoor/bushcraft type knife and maybe even easier to sharpen than a scandi even when maintaining the whole bevel, which I think is important. A well heat treated O1 is outstanding but yes, requires some maintainance. In terms of handle design, I would prefer a rather barrel/oval beefy shape, not too much contour but comfortable in any hold. Round butt is important. No or only a tiny guard. Leaf shape blade with tip in the centre, 1 inch height the most. Thin, maybe 5/32 when convex.
 
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Great input. Thanx for keeping it going. And thanx to Chris for cooperating. I think that we'll do best with a stainless, but not required.

Vanax is very difficult to get and we've failed on two Vanax projects and went to another steel. Don't know what the problem was, but I'm sure they'll get it sorted in the future.

For now, we need the optimal steel for the project. The knife that you grab first to go our into the bush, simply because it just works so well. Stainless and powdered offer much. If we go stainless and powdered, we would probably use Crucible or Carpenter steel.

sal
 
CTS-204p sounds like a winner, but Sal, how has CTS-XHP been like to work with at Spyderco?
 
JoHnYKwSt said:
I think for this blade we should stick with the tried and true all around performers. While not as exciting as some exotics, S30V or S35VN would make for a practical choice.
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It has to be exotic, high performance steel or it wont be "NASA" model :) S30V & S35V are better suited for projects where tougness is not required, i.e. folding knives. For a fixedblade used outdoors it has to offer some advantages over a folder to justify the extra weight.
 
How fine an edge does CTS-XPH maintain in comparison to S35VN and CTS-204P? The reports that I have read can't seem to decide whether it is a stainless version of D2 (loses fine edge fast) and a stainless version of A2 (holds fine edge well). Toughness doesn't seem to be questioned, but I would quite like to know how it stacks up against the other steels I mention.

For my money I think I would want one of these three. I like finer edges since my experience outdoors points me towards cutting wood as more common than skinning or cutting cardboard and rope, but know I could work with any of them. I have used and abused my 1/8th thick ATS34 bushcraft knife and have batonned it without damage or problems. I have seen impressive work done with Moras, including baton work, so while the 3v, 4v, K390 steels are all tough, I think that it is acceptable to exchange some of that toughness for corrosion resistance. You only need "enough" of both qualities.
 
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It may seem like a strange move, but I have a list of the steels and their thicknesses used by Spyderco for knives coming from Taiwan and I would expect that this project will go along smoother if one of those gets picked. S35VN isn't on that list, and it isn't "sexy" these days, but it is probably the one I would choose for me. A lot of other people have been looking forward to something with an ubber-steel, hence my interest in the CTS offerings, which ARE used in the Taichung range.
 
I can't imagine anybody complaining too much if this knife came out in 204P, although getting a knife in that steel out the door seems to be a bit of a slow process.
I have an XHP paring knife in daily use and I'm very happy with the stability and edge retention, although this knife would have very different applications from a parer the steel is doing very well by me with a polished bevel and a very thin edge.
 
Sal,
Thank you.
That is some offer and I will need to have a careful think about it. Obviously, for education purposes, Mules would be the best for comparing steels, but since those are probably all gone...I'll need to think about it and get back to you.


lakewalker said:
One of each? ;)
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LOL!! :D Fun, but not necessary!
 
I still say the South Fork (FB30G) is a great way to evaluate CPM S90V as a steel in an 'outdoors-ish' design. Sure, it's longer and thinner (4.8" x .118" vs the Bushcraft's 4.1" x .140") and it's flat vs Scandi grind, but it feels good in my hand and filets beef cuts, makes fuzz sticks, and even carves pretty well. If you want a more 'traditional' outdoors knife, try the Puukko (FB28WDP/GBN) with it's traditional Finnish design and S30V blade. It's teardrop handle shape makes it a bit less comfortable in my hand than the South Fork Or Bushcraft - or my favorite handfit from a recent model - Benchmade's Bushcraft. For that matter, my made-in-El Salvador Condor 'Bushlore' begged to have it's tropical hardwood handle reshaped as I wanted it - and the edge can be Scandi, if you want. It's 1075 CS takes an edge easily and does hold well and it comes with a nice leather drop sheath worth the knife's meager cost (I bought mine for about what the s/t would have run on the Spydie Bushcraft I saw locally.).

Lots of 'bushcraft' knives are available, but you know that. I guess my point is that if you want an outdoors knife with an upgrade steel, pipe dreams and one-offs are great - but you can try a real world example in S90V by getting a South Fork. If nothing else, you'll have a great filet knife with a useful sheath!

Stainz
 
vg10 is fine with me...& i'd rather keep the price down. 4 1/8 blade is ok, but id rather see 4.5 to 5"
 
Sal,
Thank you.
That is some offer and I will need to have a careful think about it. Obviously, for education purposes, Mules would be the best for comparing steels, but since those are probably all gone...I'll need to think about it and get back to you.
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Chris, if Sal doesn't have any Mules in steels you want to try P.M. me. I still have most of the mules. If it costs big bucks to get it to your country It might take some time for me to get it. Other than that I have no qualms about loaning you any mules I have.

Joe
 
That's a nice offer Joe, thanx much. I think we can probably get an example to Chris and save you the hassle.

Chris, all of the steel used in our Taichung factory is shipped to Taiwan from our inventory in Golden.

sal
 
After using the 204P Para at summer camp this year, I'd be excited to see it used in this project. It has a great combination of edge retention and toughness - I beat on the Para all week, not babying it, and it kept a great edge all week.

Looking forward to it Sal! And Chris, the BushCraft is still the single most comfortable knife I've ever held in my hands. Wonderful design!

TedP
 
That's a nice offer Joe, thanx much. I think we can probably get an example to Chris and save you the hassle.
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Thanks Sal.

Sorry if I overstepped on this. No offense meant.

Joe
 
No oversteps on my end, Joe. Chris is in the UK and shipping is often a hassle. Chris has been very comfortable to work with as a collaborator and his passion and talent is usually a good path for success. Anything that contributes to our getting the best possible product is always appreciated.

sal
 
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