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Discussion in 'Axe, Tomahawk, & Hatchet Forum' started by phantomknives, Jul 19, 2018.
That's a real beauty!
I have a few more gems hidden in different spots, I just need to locate the Metal Stanley Box I put them in.
I've found this to be true here in northern New England as well. Invariably Disston...
Am I supposed to use a slim taper file to sharpen one of these? I've got a good vice and the correct angle but my file wants to grind out a huge gullet(?) while not hitting the teeth. It's 7tpi. I can do a fairly good job on larger crosscut saws but I've not attempted any smaller ones yet. Any tips welcome!
Are you using a 7" triangular slim taper?
I might start there.
Does it need Jointing, fresh gullets? Are the teeth short now?
It's a beauty you have and makes me want to go look thru my saws for my Atkins
I see nice saws like that and look at all the teeth and shy away. Lol. It's not helped by the fact I was largely converted to Japanese-type pull saws many years ago, for the most part.
not too common, less so then disstons but not as hard as simmonds, it's a great find, especially a premium model in great condition
Picked up this Starrett marking gauge the other day at the flea market. Wow, Starrett made some real quality tools!! The machining is amazing!! Thanks for looking!!
They still do.
Yes, very true!
I have something a little different for you guys and it isn't vintage. Sorry.
I purchased this Japanese utility knife for my wife because she does crafty things. But I have taken a liking to it as a marking knife and various shop stuff (I am going to try a smaller size for myself). They are of two piece forge welded construction, hollow ground on one side, come pretty sharp out of their plastic packaging but take a really keen edge very easily. And the best part, they are dirt cheap.
I see right off they would be good for a number of varying duties...and I like their size and with a full wood sheath.
Starrett makes compound action end nippers. The jaws are removable, repositionable, resharpenable, and replaceable. Optional jaws include extra hard for music wire.
Did you find your Atkins saw(s)?
I have an old skew back 7tpi. Warranted superior on the medallion.
After jointing and pointing up, with a 6" slim taper, (i can't find 7" anywhere near me) I needed to set the teeth. I hadn't yet bought that last saw set so I went at it with a hammer and nail set.... man did I screw that thing up... I'm pretty peeved I didn't take a picture. It had a REAL ugly s curve.
Anyhow these are all firsts for me! Including messing it up. However I straightened it using my anvil and hammer and it cuts really quite well! It's almost perfectly straight again and It cuts nice and straight as well. A few photos!
The one question I have is how do you guys deburr the sharp side of the teeth after pointing them? Sandpaper?
Thanks for the pointers AND encouragement guys! It's a great community we have here!
I will use the little diamond paddles to deburr my saws after sharpening. I have had a lot of people tell me to just leave them And don’t take the extra step but I enjoy sharpening and I think It will make the edge will last longer. Just my two cents for what it’s worth Lol
Those teeth look mean and ready!
I use my file, a light stroke on the backside and done.
I have not looked thru the saws...but will try to show you the one or two I can get to easy...easier.
The nippers in 212 above even have Carbide insert jaws available.
Found this beauty in my Dad's stash of my grandfather's tools last week
They work really well. Always brings back memories of apprentices, ladders and blood though. Just as sure as the sun rises.
Let that hand under that slide and it will bite you hard.......