What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

Scaniaman said:
Thanks! Got it hooked up to my dust collector today, so ready to use!
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That duct alone catches all the dust? even wood? I need to improve my dust collection game...

Pablo
 
PEU said:
That duct alone catches all the dust? even wood? I need to improve my dust collection game...

Pablo
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It does a good job! On this grinder I wont be doing handle materials. But on the old grinder, that's hooked up to the same dust collector, I lift of the top foot of metal ducting and use a separate cyclone with flexible tubing when grinding handles. Very effective.
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Here's what I've got going on. Just finished assembling my new Brodbeck Ironworks grinder and building a stand for it! First 2x72 after using a Craftsman 2x42 for the past 6 years or so. Talk about an upgrade! I got almost all the attachments for it, including the surface grinder. I am waiting on receiving the disc grinder attachment, and I will weld some mounting brackets for the accessories on the table tonight.
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I’ve been searching around for belts recently because I’m running low. I came across the Norax x45 U936 which seems to be an engineered ceramic belt? I haven’t heard of engineered ceramic belts before and they sure are proud of them 13$ opposed to the $9 for the engineered AO. Have y’all tried these before? They worth it?

As to what I’m actually doing, I’ve been working on restoring this.
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I started grinding it, and found that it’s been differentially hardened. Yay! So I plan to etch it.
 
Richard Coyle said:
I’ve been searching around for belts recently because I’m running low. I came across the Norax x45 U936 which seems to be an engineered ceramic belt? I haven’t heard of engineered ceramic belts before and they sure are proud of them 13$ opposed to the $9 for the engineered AO. Have y’all tried these before? They worth it?

As to what I’m actually doing, I’ve been working on restoring this.
View attachment 1549414
I started grinding it, and found that it’s been differentially hardened. Yay! So I plan to etch it.
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I bought some a while ago because the Trizact belts (337) I have disintegrate when grinding wet. I really wanted to like the Norax, but went back to using the Trizacts dry. When those wear out, I'll get some of the 347 Trizact that can be run wet. I think everybody likes different belts, so I'd say give the Norax a try and see what you think for yourself.

I like that cleaver and hope you post a picture when you're done with it. I have a similar, smaller cleaver from my great-great-grandfather who was a butcher and I've been debating whether I should attempt to restore it or to preserve it as is.
 
Hubert S. said:
I bought some a while ago because the Trizact belts (337) I have disintegrate when grinding wet. I really wanted to like the Norax, but went back to using the Trizacts dry. When those wear out, I'll get some of the 347 Trizact that can be run wet. I think everybody likes different belts, so I'd say give the Norax a try and see what you think for yourself.

I like that cleaver and hope you post a picture when you're done with it. I have a similar, smaller cleaver from my great-great-grandfather who was a butcher and I've been debating whether I should attempt to restore it or to preserve it as is.
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Thanks for the advice! I might pick one up. 13$ is pricy though, might just stick the the AO. Idk

The cleaver has been a lot of fun to work on, it’s from my grandfather. I have it to a rough 600 grit right now hand sanded. I might have gone too far but I’d like the best distinction between hard and unhardened steel when I etch. I don’t actually know if the higher grit helps with that but it felt like the right thing to do :p
Now its time to decide on handle material, I’m thinking micarta.
 
600-1500 is good for etching damascus. For a hamon, people often take it a bit higher.
That is a lot of real estate you have there, and it's not obvious what the best look will be. It has a lot of character in it.
When you say a rough 600 I assume you mean that you have used some 600 paper, but there is some rougher texture still there...
You can always etch and then sand it some more. The only thing you can't do easily is get it back to the deep patina.
 
Richard338 said:
600-1500 is good for etching damascus. For a hamon, people often take it a bit higher.
That is a lot of real estate you have there, and it's not obvious what the best look will be. It has a lot of character in it.
When you say a rough 600 I assume you mean that you have used some 600 paper, but there is some rougher texture still there...
You can always etch and then sand it some more. The only thing you can't do easily is get it back to the deep patina.
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Actually I got all of the pits and rough texture out, hours of grinding later lol mostly because I use belts for too long. Hence why I’m buying more.

This was 320 grit
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I still need to buy corby bolts and micarta before I can finish it though.
But I think I’m going to stick with 600 and just see how it turns out.
 
Richard Coyle said:
Actually I got all of the pits and rough texture out, hours of grinding later lol mostly because I use belts for too long. Hence why I’m buying more.

This was 320 grit
View attachment 1549481

I still need to buy corby bolts and micarta before I can finish it though.
But I think I’m going to stick with 600 and just see how it turns out.
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I've spent many hours at the grinder to avoid fifteen minutes of hand sanding! Your cleaver cleaned up very nicely, it will look great with the new scales.
 
Another from the most recent series, back from JT & his heat treat. This is 0.018" AEB-L steel at 60.5, so it holds an edge pretty well. Here's the basic blade & some Bocote scales with black & white liners for a bit of accent, a great combination.

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Glued with West System's G-Flex, pins, 1/4" tube & ready for a bit of grinding to true up the scales

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After the initial grinding, flattened, tapered a bit fore & aft

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Radiused edges, sanded to 220 grit & getting ready for an oil finish

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