What's going on in your shop? Show us whats going on, and talk a bit about your work!

I am really liking wheel grinding, and the grinds that come of this 500 mm wheel. Slicy as hell. Finish is 120 grit compact grain --> maroon Scotchbrite.
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Are these yellowish streak next to the first pin cracks from overheating or material defect? Its in the same place on both scales and I noticed it when when beveling the top of the handles? The fact, the look the same and are in the same place makes me think it was a defect in the material, there is no noticeable crack when trying with a nail.

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FredyCro FredyCro I think (just personal opinion mind you) that it's just a lighter layer in the material. Or it's a de-lamination.
See if it changes color when you do it in water?
 
FredyCro FredyCro I think (just personal opinion mind you) that it's just a lighter layer in the material. Or it's a de-lamination.
See if it changes color when you do it in water?
Thanks, I hope so. The pics are shown with micarta sprayed down with water, otherwise it barely shows, the camera couldn't capture it.
 
52100 , bainite HT .............third one. What are the chances of guessing where I need to drill a pin hole ?? Well , I do that this time ..............bullseye!! :D I drill shallow blind hole to mark where I need to drill hole after gluing handle .Then I start to shape handle and sand down that mark.........................

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I HT some 52100 blanks , in brine this time ..............they all survived ,lucky day !
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Paper micarta, its industry grade stuff, i got the cut offs for free. I was very careful when grinding to cool often, I got a bit of discoloration around the pin but it ground off quickly. The pieces were cut from the same strip, so I thougth it might have been there before.

Edit for another pic:
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I have some chocolate brown paper micarta from Pop's and it gets similar, lighter streaks when overheated. The streaks I've been getting are not very deep and I've been able to get them out by going back to the previous grit fairly easily. It's hard to tell from the pictures if this is the same thing, but it looks similar.
 
Just cut this one out. I don't know what it's going to be yet.I just liked the way it looked when I first drew it on the steel. Sometimes I end up with something I like when I just cut out the first thing I drew.IMG_20210607_103302627~2.jpg
 
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Top is the BUK, belt utility knife in 3/32" thick CPM S35VN, Full flat grind and then convexed with a felt platen, 3.75" to choil. Mexican Blanket Ridgeback G carta handle, black G10 spacer, blaze Orange kydex sheath. Bottom is the LUK, 3/32" Elmax, 3" cutting edge, with G10 spacer and thin linen camo micarta scales:

SZEGcYD.jpg


3.75" Alabama Damascus 3/32" full flat grind blade, Green Micarta handle, orange G10 spacer and wood pattern kydex sheath:
s8DHv2B.jpg


190mm kitchen knife in 3/32" Alabama Damascus steel, convex ground, green/white TJ Lam handles:
jdn4NXl.jpg
 
Top is the BUK, belt utility knife in 3/32" thick CPM S35VN, Full flat grind and then convexed with a felt platen, 3.75" to choil. Mexican Blanket Ridgeback G carta handle, black G10 spacer, blaze Orange kydex sheath. Bottom is the LUK, 3/32" Elmax, 3" cutting edge, with G10 spacer and thin linen camo micarta scales:

SZEGcYD.jpg


3.75" Alabama Damascus 3/32" full flat grind blade, Green Micarta handle, orange G10 spacer and wood pattern kydex sheath:
s8DHv2B.jpg


190mm kitchen knife in 3/32" Alabama Damascus steel, convex ground, green/white TJ Lam handles:
jdn4NXl.jpg
Some radius in front of scales would make difference ............
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With CPM S35VN and Elmax, I don't want to file in the radius by hand! I have diamond needle files, but that would take a long time!
 
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