BF2020 Viper Swayback Discuss Thread

knifethetank said:
I'm happy with my rams horn as it is, if it wasn't a forum knife I probably wouldn't have purchased. I've always stayed away from buying rams horn because you never know what it will look like and it can slightly move changing the shape and even worse warp. If it was me I wouldn't clean these horns using water even if it's a little, if any moisture sets in I think you could be asking for trouble. Yes I'm cautious, yes the amount of water being used is probably not more than a sweaty hand. If the wax really bothered me I think I would try and buff it out with a soft horsehair boot brush first. Just my 2 cents.
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Warping makes sense because the tensions that existed during growth and when the horn was intact are gone and the material is pretty thin. Changing humidity and temps alone will obviously have an effect over time.
Is water a problem because interior horn material is exposed? Or it's not growing anymore?
Because I would think they get and stay wet quite often while being worn by the animal.
 
r8shell said:
On a knife with traditional construction, I would carefully file the kick. This knife uses a stop pin, which meets an indention in the blade's tang. I don't know if the knife is easily disassemble-able, but if so, I imagine one could use a round needle file to lower that area. The only other idea I can come up with is to file down the spine, which would move the tip back by shortening the blade. I hope someone has other ideas.
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It would be a long process of disassembly>file>reassemble>observe result<repeat if necessary
Tedious I suppose, but care must be taken to not remove too much material from the groove, that would obviously lead to another repair.
And M390 resists most types of file, tough stuff.
 
r8shell said:
On a knife with traditional construction, I would carefully file the kick. This knife uses a stop pin, which meets an indention in the blade's tang. I don't know if the knife is easily disassemble-able, but if so, I imagine one could use a round needle file to lower that area. The only other idea I can come up with is to file down the spine, which would move the tip back by shortening the blade. I hope someone has other ideas.
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Thanks for your input r8shell. I hadn't thought of disassembly but unfortunately I think you are right. It seems the only way to accurately remove metal from the stop-pin indentation on the blade.
 
Barman1 said:
It would be a long process of disassembly>file>reassemble>observe result<repeat if necessary
Tedious I suppose, but care must be taken to not remove too much material from the groove, that would obviously lead to another repair.
And M390 resists most types of file, tough stuff.
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redsparrow said:
Thanks for your input r8shell. I hadn't thought of disassembly but unfortunately I think you are right. It seems the only way to accurately remove metal from the stop-pin indentation on the blade.
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Yeah, this is my only criticism of the knife. I know how to do simple modification/repairs on more traditionally constructed ones. And the steel is too hard. :p
I sound like those old guys who don't like modern cars because they can't fix 'em in their driveways. Hopefully it'll be a while before I have to deal with a proud tip.
 
redsparrow redsparrow if the tip is already catching your finger, were I you, i'd shoot a message to Viper Knives to have it fixed before attempting to fix it yourself. Its likely a manufacturing error.

For what its worth, I marked my blade with pencil where it'd start to peak above the liners to measure. It's nearly a 1/8th inch. For me to sharpen M390 steel past that point is not something I'd expect to see in my remaining lifetime (i'm 40). A couple passes on a fine grit diamond stone and then a loaded strop should do wonders to restore the edge.
 
seas165 said:
How does horn react to oils? I have never had horn before. And as far as moisture or water is applying a wax the best protection? I have a blend of beeswax and cocoa butter i use o leather would that be ok?
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I'm scared of bugs, so my new handle has been sprayed with kerosene and rubbed with kerosene and linseed oil. It seems fine with it.
hvRqYLT.jpg
 
r8shell said:
Yeah, this is my only criticism of the knife. I know how to do simple modification/repairs on more traditionally constructed ones. And the steel is too hard. :p
I sound like those old guys who don't like modern cars because they can't fix 'em in their driveways. Hopefully it'll be a while before I have to deal with a proud tip.
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I would be surprised if you sharpened it 100 times by traditional means to be a problem. I had a well worn Case Barlow that with a lot of sharpening (years worth), it developed a protruding tip closed and I retired it. The blade was seriously worn at that point.

jrawk said:
redsparrow redsparrow if the tip is already catching your finger, were I you, i'd shoot a message to Viper Knives to have it fixed before attempting to fix it yourself. Its likely a manufacturing error.

For what its worth, I marked my blade with pencil where it'd start to peak above the liners to measure. It's nearly a 1/8th inch. For me to sharpen M390 steel past that point is not something I'd expect to see in my remaining lifetime (i'm 40). A couple passes on a fine grit diamond stone and then a loaded strop should do wonders to restore the edge.
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I doubt most of us will ever develop a proud tip with these knives. Yes to contacting Viper IF it is really a problem or just something you think will be an issue 20 years from now.
 
jrawk said:
redsparrow redsparrow if the tip is already catching your finger, were I you, i'd shoot a message to Viper Knives to have it fixed before attempting to fix it yourself. Its likely a manufacturing error.

For what its worth, I marked my blade with pencil where it'd start to peak above the liners to measure. It's nearly a 1/8th inch. For me to sharpen M390 steel past that point is not something I'd expect to see in my remaining lifetime (i'm 40). A couple passes on a fine grit diamond stone and then a loaded strop should do wonders to restore the edge.
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Hmm. Mine is about half a millimeter below the liner.
At the point it starts tearing up my pocket, I may have to do something.
 
Just a thought, sort of wondering out loud and a question for those that know.

Would shellac be appropriate to apply/seal the horn after washing it up ?

I know it's food safe as it's used for medicines and candy, it is a natural product, good sealer, moisture proof etc.
I have flakes that I use once in a while on wooden projects by mixing them with denature alcohol.
 
Still no idea where mine is, and still no tracking info beyond it leaving OKC on the 13th.
 
Mine came earlier than expected, this past Monday (after the USPS tracker predicted today, Wednesday). Unfortunately I had already left home to hunt for a few days, and just got to open it up and look today. What a great surprise - I got the Rachel model - looks a bit like the Hatteras Lighthouse. Great walk & talk, great fit & finish, very sharp, and cool to boot! OH
Ps I take it the tang etch of "M390" is the blade steel? Is that a stainless steel? thanks to Mike at Collector Knives for making this Blade Forum Knife happen!
Viper-Blade-Forums-2020-1.jpg

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Purely out interest, since there’s this chat about Ramshorn and care thereof - some of the most coveted old English walking sticks have Ramshorn handles.

The horn is heated and curved around a steel former into the correct shape, they’re then polished to a state of utter magnificence. To keep them in tip-top shape - brass polish. To preserve them - palm sweat.
 
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