My rehandle and shield projects (with tutorials)

I thought what he meant was put the pin stock in the drill and file it down with a file while the drill is spinning.
 
Knife shop machinists usual refer to pin sizes in decimal, and drill bits in decimal or corresponding size number. A common center pin and bolster pin size is .086", which would be drilled with a number 44 drill. Another common pin size is .093", with the drill being #41. A few useful tools would be a set of pin gauges, a drill/wire gauge, and a Vernier caliper. These help to take a lot of guesswork out of hole/pin sizes.

Eric
 
Sacto said:
I thought what he meant was put the pin stock in the drill and file it down with a file while the drill is spinning.
Click to expand...
I got that part but in a previous post he mentioned acquiring drill bits in various sizes...just wasn't sure the context exactly since we were talking about modifying pins.
 
I have also had various issues with pins. I wonder if part of the problem is the tolerances in the manufacturing of the pin stock. Depending on where the pins come from, the diameter may not be super precise.
 
waverave said:
Ahhhhh...that seems like the way to do it.
You mentioned the drill bits of various sizes...are you suggesting to use drill bits for pin stock? Or just saying there are bits the same size as various pin stock (insinuating that existing holes would indeed need to be drilled out). Sorry a little confused by that.
Ideally, Id like to have all the various sized pin stock....seems easy for brass but not so much the nickel silver.
Click to expand...
I started to answer this and got about 5 paragraphs in and erased it because I was rambling terribly. The drill bits are for drilling the pin holes after gluing and placing the covers if they aren’t very close to the right size you’re either drilling the hole too small or too big. Too small and the pin is held by whatever the cover material is which if there is any shearing force may crack the covers. Too big and it has to be peined more and there is the possibility of side to side movement or you have to drill the spring to match which may work but in my opinion it’s not worth the trouble (other opinions may vary) basically for me right now the challenge has been in getting the right drill bit for the size of the hole in the spring pin. I don’t think the other pins matter as much, like the ones that hold the covers on or the back pin. I’ll stop before I start rambling again.
 
jsdistin said:
I started to answer this and got about 5 paragraphs in and erased it because I was rambling terribly. The drill bits are for drilling the pin holes after gluing and placing the covers if they aren’t very close to the right size you’re either drilling the hole too small or too big. Too small and the pin is held by whatever the cover material is which if there is any shearing force may crack the covers. Too big and it has to be peined more and there is the possibility of side to side movement or you have to drill the spring to match which may work but in my opinion it’s not worth the trouble (other opinions may vary) basically for me right now the challenge has been in getting the right drill bit for the size of the hole in the spring pin. I don’t think the other pins matter as much, like the ones that hold the covers on or the back pin. I’ll stop before I start rambling again.
Click to expand...
Got it thank you :thumbsup: You are saying it is best to have a good variety of bits that properly fit the existing holes and then grind down a pin to size...which makes perfect sense. I have been using a 1/16", 5/64" and 3/32" bit primarily...which correspond to my pin stock sizes.
Thanks for the feedback!
 
Rose and Thistle Custom said:
I chucked pin in my drillpress and held a file against it.
Click to expand...
That’s pretty much what I’m talking about except with a hand drill

ea42 said:
Knife shop machinists usual refer to pin sizes in decimal, and drill bits in decimal or corresponding size number. A common center pin and bolster pin size is .086", which would be drilled with a number 44 drill. Another common pin size is .093", with the drill being #41. A few useful tools would be a set of pin gauges, a drill/wire gauge, and a Vernier caliper. These help to take a lot of guesswork out of hole/pin sizes.

Eric
Click to expand...
I’ve seen the decimal pin stock which corresponds to a fraction but I haven’t seen these drill bit sizes, but I haven’t found any pins that are the proper size for the pre-existing holes in at lease GEC, Dwight Devine or a case knife, what’s worse is that the different holes seem to be drilled to different sizes. I’ll check into those bits thanks

Sacto said:
I have also had various issues with pins. I wonder if part of the problem is the tolerances in the manufacturing of the pin stock. Depending on where the pins come from, the diameter may not be super precise.
Click to expand...
That certainly may be the case because I’ve have a few where a very small amount needed to be removed from the pin for it to fit.
Edited to remove rambling
 
Last edited:
waverave said:
Got it thank you :thumbsup: You are saying it is best to have a good variety of bits that properly fit the existing holes and then grind down a pin to size...which makes perfect sense. I have been using a 1/16", 5/64" and 3/32" bit primarily...which correspond to my pin stock sizes.
Thanks for the feedback!
Click to expand...
That’s exactly what I had started out doing and am just recently doing it the new way because of a few issues I’ve noticed, none catastrophic though.
 
Finally had time to work on things...and got this project done (the right way this time).
It still cost me a few more 1/32" router bits but it went a lot better this time. I stuck a .008" feeler in between the blade and liner when I peened the pivot pin and it worked great.
Next I need to work on getting the pivot pin to blend with the bolsters better...not easy to do!
Anyway, I really like how this turned out.
RoughRyderSwayback.jpg
 
waverave said:
Finally had time to work on things...and got this project done (the right way this time).
It still cost me a few more 1/32" router bits but it went a lot better this time. I stuck a .008" feeler in between the blade and liner when I peened the pivot pin and it worked great.
Next I need to work on getting the pivot pin to blend with the bolsters better...not easy to do!
Anyway, I really like how this turned out.
View attachment 1200977
Click to expand...

That’s looking good. I read about putting the feeler gauge between the blade and liner when I started modding a couple years ago but for some reason never got one, I like making things dumber and more difficult I guess. Maybe try just piening more the bolsters won’t break and the only issue with the pivot pin is over tightening the joint and locking it up which shouldn’t be an issue with a shim in there, also feathering the outer edges of the pin works as well but you easily end up with hammer marks that then need to be filed and sanded out but it really reduces the visibility of the pin when you’re done.
 
Good reading here Darren. I'm getting into recovering myself. I started a knife recently but put it on hold while I remodel my work area and order in some basic tooling for these projects. I purchased a small belt sander. Dremel Moto Saw, Dremel workstation. Calipers and 123 blocks and a granite cutting board. Need to get a dremel router attachment still but my first couple knives I plan to not do shields. Thanks for sharing your experiences. They will be helpful for me!
 
waverave said:
Finally had time to work on things...and got this project done (the right way this time).
It still cost me a few more 1/32" router bits but it went a lot better this time. I stuck a .008" feeler in between the blade and liner when I peened the pivot pin and it worked great.
Next I need to work on getting the pivot pin to blend with the bolsters better...not easy to do!
Anyway, I really like how this turned out.
View attachment 1200977
Click to expand...
Great looking knife. I can’t believe you’ve only done a few so far. You’re progressing faster that I am, for sure.
 
waverave said:
Finally had time to work on things...and got this project done (the right way this time).
It still cost me a few more 1/32" router bits but it went a lot better this time. I stuck a .008" feeler in between the blade and liner when I peened the pivot pin and it worked great.
Next I need to work on getting the pivot pin to blend with the bolsters better...not easy to do!
Anyway, I really like how this turned out.
View attachment 1200977
Click to expand...
I think you've found your calling... you're progressing rapidly. :cool::thumbsup:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top